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Why neighborhood mechanics rock

Posted May 23 2008, 11:42 AM by Donna Freedman
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Recently I used a coupon to get a $17.95 oil change and tire rotation at a local auto-repair chain. Along with the bill came -- surprise! -- a warning that more work was needed. They suggested a tune-up plus a flush of both the coolant and brake fluids because the former was "dirty" and the latter was "dark and dirty." Horrors.

This may have sounded like a scam -- come in for cheap work, pay for additional work -- but I believed them. It's been a long time since those chores were done. I'm not sure how long. According to an MSN Money article, I should have been keeping a service log instead of (usually) tossing receipts into a folder. Oops.

Clearly it was time for some Chevy coddling, especially since my brakes had begun to squeal. Immediately I thought "$500." That's the number that pops into my head whenever a mechanic pops the hood.

So long, economic-stimulus check -- once you get here, I thought. Originally I'd hoped to put that $600 into my Roth IRA. Well, at least it would pay for a chunk of the repair. Maybe.

I wasn't truly anxious, though, because I trust my car-care professional. Everyone should have a mechanic he can trust.

The family doctor, for cars
A guy who goes to the same church I do recommended this mechanic. His place of business reminds me of the auto shop in the town where I grew up: small and cluttered, with car parts on some of the chairs in the tiny waiting area, and not a single naked-lady calendar. It's just him and another employee, a courteous man who encouraged my halting attempts to converse with him in Spanish.

On Wednesday afternoon, the mechanic listened to my description of the problems and suggested I drop the Chevy off the next morning. That's the best part about having a neighborhood place: I can walk back home in three minutes.

A voice-mail message was waiting when I got out of my first class just before lunchtime. "It's going to be almost $500. Call me and let me know what you want me to do about the brakes."

My first reaction: $500? Ha! I was right.

My second reaction: Good grief. Almost $500 for brakes?

Deal with the squeal
As it turned out, he meant almost $500 for everything: coolant and brake fluid flushes, new front brake pads, the turning of two rotors, cleaning and adjusting the rear brakes, a little TLC for the hand brake, and new air and gas filters, spark plugs and wires. (The factory-installed plugs and wires were still in use.) With labor and tax, it came to $492.99.

Lest some of you write in to say how much less you paid for the same service, remember that this is a decent-sized city with higher overhead than your cousin's garage in Anytown, USA. Mechanic prices vary. So do car part prices.

The fact is, I trust the workmanship -- and $492.99 every so often beats the heck out of 48 monthly car payments. My hope is to drive this seven-year-old vehicle for at least another seven years, preferably longer. My sister kept a car for 16 years; my dad ran a Volkswagen hard for more than two decades, putting two new engines into the valiant little bug. According to an MSN Money article, "Almost any car can be nursed to 200,000 miles without endangering your life, and even a new engine is cheaper than all but the cheapest used cars."

That is, if you can find a mechanic you trust. Another MSN Money article has some search tips, and suggests that you look for a mechanic before you need one. Picture yourself standing in the highway median next to your moribund vehicle -- when the tow truck arrives, where will you tell the driver to take you?

That may seem like fairly obvious advice. Then again, you probably know somebody who never got around to choosing a doctor or dentist -- but who, on the day he woke up with a fever or a toothache, sure wished he had.

I still wish I could put the whole rebate check into the Roth. But at least I'm stimulating the local economy.

Comments

 

I worked for co's that have sold cars and test equipment. I have seen what the bad guys do. That gives the good guys a bad name before they even get a chance. There are a lot of real good repair shops out there. Suggestions don't go in any shop with an attitude of your going to rip me off. Check the parts prices at your local auto parts stores. Yes the prices do vary, call around. Keep in mind that the repair shop has overhead, things like insurance, lights, water, payroll etc. They also have to have service informatiom manual programs avail to them, they cost about $15,000.00 for all cars. Its nothing uncommon for a good repair shop to have close to $500.000 or more in equipment alone. Don't forget all those EPA laws they must comply with too. There is also a shortage of technicans. most shops can't pay these tech's what they are woth and most dealerships sure as hell don't. I will never buy a new car again because of what I know. My last car was bought in 1991. I fix my own and repair my own. My last lepair was about $140.00 if I had to have it done would have been about $750.00 or more. If you do it your self get the factory service manual on your vehicle (about $75.00). You may have to have a good scan tool, you can spend some money here. They can be used on more than just one vehicle. don't skimp on that. Snapon makes a great one (ebay). Make sure you understand the repair before you ever start it. The factory manual will take you through the testing. Testing takes time, guessing costs money in unnessary parts.  If you mess up it will cost you more, they don't like having to fix your mess up in order to find the orginal problem.

I told this because you can do some things real easy. It may take some time to get your money back on tools. But with this information you can tell if the shop is feeding you a line or telling you the truth. You can always sell the tools and get some of your money back should you decide too.

My local mechanic of 25 years is as honest as the day is long, he "never" installs anything without my prior approval, now he maintains all our work vehicles for his honesty, 43 in total, that's how you get business, be honest and as you all know "word of mouth" can kill a business.

Pontiac Bonneville 2002 - Did tie rods, right front wheel bearing, front end alignment here were the estimates:

Chain Outfit - $750

Dealership - $ 800

2 neighborhood mechanics I trust that will depend on who can get me in first ($502 new shop, old $496).

Went to the $502 (new) shop car was done the next day.  I used to go to the dealership since they were usually fast, but since this new shop opened I get my cars in and out fast and a lot cheaper.

The mechanics from the old shop came from the dealership.  Usually it is seams the best mechanics go on their own.

Sara, coolant should be replaced every fve years.

I have a great mechanic too!!!! I have been scammed by dealerships and would never take my car to them or any chain.  The shop where I take my car has an owner and 3 mechanics all the best.  My car is 20 years old with 295,000 miles on it (original engine..tranny was rebuilt once) and they were hard miles..once across the country and back and a daily 90 mile one way commute from Penna. to NYC for 18 years. She is one gorgeous Cranberry Toyota Supra Turbo and I would not trade her for any auto on the road today and thanks to my mechanic she will keep on rolling for even longer.

BRAKE FLUID IS WATER BASED AND ABSORBS MOISTURE, THIS OVER A PERIOD OF TIME TURNS TO SLUDGE IN THE  LOWEST SECTION OF THE MASTER CYLINDER FLUID RESAVIOR.  THEN IF LEFT ALONE WILL EVENTUALY ENTER THE LOWEST SECTION OF THE MASTER CYLINDER: THE BORE. OLDER VEHICLES......SAY 1990 OR OLDER HAVE CAST-IRON MASTERCYLINDER BORES THAT WILL "PITT"...MEANING SMALL HOLES IN THE BORE FROM RUST OR MOISTURE.  THE END RESULT IS  CYLINDER PISTON BY-PASSING AND BRAKE PEDAL GOES TO FLOOR, AND COMBINATION  SAFETY VALVE LOCKS ON REAR BRAKES TO STOP VEHICLE.  THIS IS WHY WE FLUSH FOR ABOUT 10% OF THE COST OF REPLACING ALL BRAKE SYSTEM HYDRAULICS AFTER IT IS TOO LATE.  LATTER VEHICLES....SAY1995 AND NEWER HAVE ALUMINUM BRAKE CYLINDER BORES AND STILL CORRODE WITH MOISTURE AND SLUDGE WILL STILL SETTLE IN RESAVIORS.  IF YOU LIVE IN A AREA WHERE HUMID CONDITIONS ARE PRESENT  FLUSH  BRAKE SYSTEM.  BUT IN MOST CASES NOT NESSESSARY UNDER 90,000 MILES OR APPROX. 3YRS.  SOMEONE SAY IN ARIZONA MIGHT NOT EVER NEED BRAKE SYSTEM FLUSH AS THE AIR HAS NO MOISTURE.  BRAKE FLUID WHEN NEW WILL HAVE THE COLOR OF EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL OR VERY LIGHT GOLD.  IF FLUID IS THE COLOR OF DARK BEER,   GET IT OUT OF THE SYSTEM.  A GOOD SUGESTION: REPLACE WITH DOT4 FLUID IF YOU HAVE DOT3 IN THE VEHICLE NOW. DOT 4 IS 100% COMPATIBLE WITH DOT 3 AND HAS BETTER QUALITIES TOO MANY TO LIST.

I am an ASE certified Master Mechanic and 100 % factory trained Honda Tech. I have just read all the posts prior to mine and am still laughing at most of them. If doing these repairs yourselves was so easy I wouldn't have a job. I fix what owners have repaired  on their cars on a regular basis. People come in and think you plug in some magic box that tells you what is wrong with the car. If that was the case, I was stupid for investing in $60,000 worth of tools and test equipment. Fluids and rubber components break down over time. faster if the two are combined. You think brake fluid is in a sealed system? Go take the cap off and tell me what you see. the dirt accumulated at the bottom of the bottle didn't pass through the plastic...it got through between the lid and bottle. If dirt gets in that easy...think how much easier it is for moisture. One thing in life has always held true for me, you get what you pay for!! It is your responsibility to understand the maintenance requirements for your car. It is usually in the little book in the glove box that nobody reads. If you have a problem with a dealers shop or practices, you should call the manufacturers customer service dept. I have worked at a Honda dealer for 20 years and American Honda  holds us to a high standard regarding the repair and maintenance  of their products

I too have a local mechanic, have known him for years, and he is certified as well.He does great work and is open and honest with you from the start, if there are multiple issues he will recommend what to do first in progression if you do not want to tackle the probles all at once. He is always busy and is recommended by many peopple as well as being active in the community. We need nore like him in this business of auto repairs. I remember my daughter came home and said 'Dad, the guys ar the tire place said I need 4 new rims, I asked why she said I need them for the 4 new tires'. I went back to the tire dealer with her and asked for 4 new tires. The sales man said you also need 4 new rims, I asked why and he stated' the rims do not fit the tires' I said funny, these are the original rims and tires when we bought the tires new. Had a funny look on his face and came back and said, sorry, we made a mistake. I walked out and ordered tires through our mechanic and in a few days we were set.

I imported a 1994 GM sport car into Canada a couple years ago, and the car needed to be fitted with daylight running lights to meet the federal inspection. I got three differesnt estimates from three GM dealers for this conversion. The estimates were all close to $700.00

The independent garage I have used for years got on the internet and ordered a plug-in module made  specifically for this model by a company in Ohio for $29.00. Go figure that one out. They saved me over $600 and the work was done properly.

I had a similar experience with an window motor, and a local auto-electric business replaced it wth original parts for a fraction of the dealer estimate.

I took my car to a local garage because I needed wheel bearings.  They were more expensive than some, but had a "good" reputation. I decided to get new tires, also, a tune up, etc.  The total came to about $1500.00. Fine.  Then I got the estimate of other things I needed:  new motor mounts, all new struts including alignment, new valve cover and o-ring gaskets, totaling an additional $2300.00.  My car was 6 years old with just over 50,000 miles on it.  I decided to wait.  A few months later, my check engine light went on and I took it to a neighborhood mechanic. O2 sensor was bad, according to his computer test, but nothing major.  I asked him about the other things that were on my estimate and he started laughing, saying he'd like that job.  I told him the job would be his if it needed to be done.  Needless to say, none of the motor mounts were bad, the strust were fine, and the o-ring gaskets could wait until next tune-up, if they were even necessary at that time.  I will never go anywhere else.  Friends that have had major repairs done say his work is excellent and reasonable.

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