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Why neighborhood mechanics rock

Posted May 23 2008, 11:42 AM by Donna Freedman
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Recently I used a coupon to get a $17.95 oil change and tire rotation at a local auto-repair chain. Along with the bill came -- surprise! -- a warning that more work was needed. They suggested a tune-up plus a flush of both the coolant and brake fluids because the former was "dirty" and the latter was "dark and dirty." Horrors.

This may have sounded like a scam -- come in for cheap work, pay for additional work -- but I believed them. It's been a long time since those chores were done. I'm not sure how long. According to an MSN Money article, I should have been keeping a service log instead of (usually) tossing receipts into a folder. Oops.

Clearly it was time for some Chevy coddling, especially since my brakes had begun to squeal. Immediately I thought "$500." That's the number that pops into my head whenever a mechanic pops the hood.

So long, economic-stimulus check -- once you get here, I thought. Originally I'd hoped to put that $600 into my Roth IRA. Well, at least it would pay for a chunk of the repair. Maybe.

I wasn't truly anxious, though, because I trust my car-care professional. Everyone should have a mechanic he can trust.

The family doctor, for cars
A guy who goes to the same church I do recommended this mechanic. His place of business reminds me of the auto shop in the town where I grew up: small and cluttered, with car parts on some of the chairs in the tiny waiting area, and not a single naked-lady calendar. It's just him and another employee, a courteous man who encouraged my halting attempts to converse with him in Spanish.

On Wednesday afternoon, the mechanic listened to my description of the problems and suggested I drop the Chevy off the next morning. That's the best part about having a neighborhood place: I can walk back home in three minutes.

A voice-mail message was waiting when I got out of my first class just before lunchtime. "It's going to be almost $500. Call me and let me know what you want me to do about the brakes."

My first reaction: $500? Ha! I was right.

My second reaction: Good grief. Almost $500 for brakes?

Deal with the squeal
As it turned out, he meant almost $500 for everything: coolant and brake fluid flushes, new front brake pads, the turning of two rotors, cleaning and adjusting the rear brakes, a little TLC for the hand brake, and new air and gas filters, spark plugs and wires. (The factory-installed plugs and wires were still in use.) With labor and tax, it came to $492.99.

Lest some of you write in to say how much less you paid for the same service, remember that this is a decent-sized city with higher overhead than your cousin's garage in Anytown, USA. Mechanic prices vary. So do car part prices.

The fact is, I trust the workmanship -- and $492.99 every so often beats the heck out of 48 monthly car payments. My hope is to drive this seven-year-old vehicle for at least another seven years, preferably longer. My sister kept a car for 16 years; my dad ran a Volkswagen hard for more than two decades, putting two new engines into the valiant little bug. According to an MSN Money article, "Almost any car can be nursed to 200,000 miles without endangering your life, and even a new engine is cheaper than all but the cheapest used cars."

That is, if you can find a mechanic you trust. Another MSN Money article has some search tips, and suggests that you look for a mechanic before you need one. Picture yourself standing in the highway median next to your moribund vehicle -- when the tow truck arrives, where will you tell the driver to take you?

That may seem like fairly obvious advice. Then again, you probably know somebody who never got around to choosing a doctor or dentist -- but who, on the day he woke up with a fever or a toothache, sure wished he had.

I still wish I could put the whole rebate check into the Roth. But at least I'm stimulating the local economy.

Comments

 

Muffler bearing? I had a flux capacitor go. And a leak of headlight fluid. Really, as one

of those mechanics, I have seen the work of others. With newer fuel injected engines, you need equipment to diagnose the problem, not just guess and swap parts. Even brakes have changed a bit. I try to find a guy who works for a dealer

to help me after hours if I need help. Also, look in the owners manual, you very much need to change fluids when recommended. I personally have rotted out an engine from the inside out by not changing the coolant. (4.6L Ford with 70k) That will be 50 bucks!

Message to all. Before saying yes to a call from a mechanic for "extra work" ,check with someone else(online, another mechanic,friend,father,etc,..) to ask what is and isn't necessary. I live in Florida,40 minutes north of Tampa and took my older Volvo in for service every year with a list of items I wanted done; brakes,oil change-always synthethic, coolant flush,ac evac and recharge,tire rotation,etc... I used to have a great mechanical shop that didn't try to "take me" and the guy sold out and after going to the new owner's shop for work I needed $800 worth of corrective work to fix what they had done. Oh and there is little or no recourse,who polices these people(the state?) . So don't take car repairs for granted; get preventive maintenance done yearly and only go to shops where they were highly recommended or referred MANY times! If they charge more,so be it.Your peace of mind is worth more than a few bucks. Take care.  

Hello Donna,

I am one of those nieghborhood mechanics with a small shop cluttered with parts and pieces, mostly a trail through the cars and parts to my office that is divided by a table on rollers. I worked in the dealerships for nearly 24 years with the last 8 years as a service director. When I became tired of the hussle and bussle of high pressure dealership life, I left and opened my own shop (again) and for the last 4 years have taken careof the nieghbors cars and such. An occasional lawn mower shows up. I have found that the same honesty I showed my service techs and customers goes along ways.

My father told me when I left home, " Son, you can shear a sheep several times a year, but you can only skin it once."

I have lived by that moto ever since.

I agree, find yourself an honest mechanic, do not let the appearance be your judge, ask for a list of references, if he/she gets mad or defensive, leave, there are more that will willingly give that list.

Good luck!!

$500, that's a good price for all that work. You are definitely right about keeping a log of maintenance--it will save you a lot of headaches and a broken car. I am a mechanic myself (aircraft and diesel engine). Finding mechanics who are repuatable is a hard thing to do these days--I try to do all my own work, but there are occasions when I have to go to a shop that has more equipment than myself. I usually do a thorough grilling of the management/mechanics at the facility before turning the vehicle over. But good quality parts are pricey, and the mechanics have to put food on the table too. My best advice, get a little knowledge of the inner workings of your vehicle (Chilton's and Haynes manuals are great.) That way you can converse better with the people repairing your car, and you know what they are talking about (plus that may head off a "rip-off") And about the maintenance log--I keep track of my oil changes,air filter changes, etc. My general rule of thumb (some of my mechanic peers may disagree) my newer car ('03 Toyota Echo) I change the oil every 3000 miles. The older cars--every 5000 miles. This will help me keep them on the road for a long time (my '88 Dodge pickup still runs strong at 252,000 miles--no engine overhaul!) Keep up on the maintenance--take care of any "small" problems before they become "big" expensive problems. Do what maintenance you can, and then try family/friends who are mechanically inclined for the bigger stuff, and then use a shop as a last resort and check out the facility well before turning your vehicle over. Just my 2 cents.....

ive been in the auto business for over 25 years and yes the big name shops prices are higher. because they have ovehead. always try to sell you something you didnt come in for.STAY WITH A LOCAL SHOP.

I'm glad you have a mechanic you can trust. They are very difficult to find in this day and age. Don't let anybody convince you to get rid of your aging vehicle unless it is yourself. I drive a 1976 Ford F150 that I bought in 1982. It's about ready for a drivetrain overhaul which I plan to do this year. Like you said, it'll be cheaper than payments and knowing the state I live in , probably cheaper than tax and tags on a new one. If I live to be a 100 I'll never understand why some mechanics deceive folks, there's so much business out there that NEEDS to be done, why make up something? It's good he/she points out things you need or are going to need soon, that's what oil change and lube jobs are for, to look for potential problems or things that just need a little TLC. A vehicle is kind of like a spouse/partner, take care of it and it'll take care of you. :o)

 I work for a dealership, and we do have special priced oil changes. We do this to get people in the door and look for any other problems that you might have coming up. I think knowing before is better than breaking down. How ever that brings up the question of trust. Most fluids need serviced, if you look in your service manual it tells  when these need done. If you follow the book everytime you wont have the problem of not remebering when it was done last. Its in the book. SIMPLE HUH. Miles since serviced, fluid color and smell is the only way we judge if you need it or not, but some fluids smell bad even when new. I see lots of people that come in for problems someone said they have, only to find nothing wrong. Not all service departments are ran like mine. So it is true, finding a trustable, fair priced repair shop is hard. When you do find a good one, share it with others. Keep in mind all these non-dealer types dont get the training to keep up with the times and if your car is newer it might be best to return to a dealership. If you drive a ford go to ford. If you drive a chevy go to chevy and so on. Allways remember in some cases you get what you pay for. Cheaper isn't allways better. Hope you all the best.

Brake parts like all other parts wear out long before the fluid does.  Calipers, wheel cylinders and hoses need to be changed periodically as they deterioate from the inside out.  When these parts are changed new fluid has to be added and the system bled.  One more thing.......I have a '94 Toyota.  It has over 250,000 miles...nothing outside of routine maintenance ever.  Yes...repairing is much cheaper then going into debt for for years to come.

I am a mechanic, most of us really want and deserve your trust, there are a few of course who create the situations that make most people skeptical. One thing that does stand out is when we have to call you and tell you your car needs more work than you thought or we estimated. Many repairs require the removal of many part to get to the problem we are working on. In doing this, parts will actually break when being removed due to the amount of wear they have sustained and that they may be rusted or frozen in place due to rust or road grime. The statement we hear is "it was fine when I brought it in" is true, you are correct, it was fine, until we had to try and remove it. Just a thought for for those of you that have heard this. And yes, those small neighborhood mechanics are some of the best.

Thank you,

i have a 1995 lincoln mark v111 with only 55.000 miles.it seems to me that every other time i go to the dealership for an oil change they tell me first it was ball joints,then it was the air ride system,now it`s the altiinator which since feb,2008 has cost me over $4000.that`s the last straw.i`m going to find a mechanic  in the largo area.as i`m never going back.

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