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Beware when stores sell 'salon-only' hair-care products

Posted Apr 30 2008, 01:38 PM by Karen Datko
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This post comes from Lisa Wade McCormick at partner blog ConsumerAffairs.com.

Consumers who buy professional hair-care products at major retailers -- or at grocery stores and drugstores -- are not getting the bargains they may think they are.

They're also fueling a gray-market industry that deals in counterfeit, stolen or outdated merchandise.

That's the warning issued by hair-care giants like Paul Mitchell, Redken and Matrix, which are trying to crack down on an industrywide problem known as diversion.

This problem is not only costly to the image of hair-care makers, but consumers also pay a hefty price.

"The consumer is getting ripped off because not only are they paying more for the products, those products did not come from us, they are not guaranteed, and they could be old, stolen, counterfeit or tampered with," said Vikki Bresnahan, director of product-distribution control for Paul Mitchell. "It's definitely a buyer-beware situation."

To illustrate how this scheme affects consumers' pocketbooks, ConsumerAffairs.com purchased three professional hair-care products from a Target store in Kansas City, Mo.

Easy to find

clip_image004We didn't have any trouble finding these types of products in the store. The shelves on one side of an aisle were filled with various brands of salon-exclusive shampoos, hair sprays, conditioners and other products.

ConsumerAffairs.com purchased the following:

    • A 10.58-ounce bottle of Redken Guts 10 volume spray foam for $15.99.

    • A 16.9-ounce bottle of Matrix Biolage normalizing shampoo for $13.99.

    • An 8.5-ounce bottle of Paul Mitchell light-hold finishing spray for $10.49.

    We discovered that these same products would have cost much less at a professional salon.

    "Our retail price for that finishing spray is $7.50," said Paul Mitchell's Bresnahan. "You just paid $2.99 more than retail for a product that is diverted.

    "When consumers go into Target, they think they're getting a product that is cheaper," she added. "But they're not. And not only are the products not cheaper, they may not be the real thing."

    We contacted professional stylists at The Sharper Cut in Kansas City to compare the prices on the other salon-exclusive products we purchased at Target.

    Higher price

    Once again, we discovered we paid more than professional-salon prices.

    Consider:

      • The Biolage shampoo by Matrix costs $9.96 at The Sharper Cut. We paid $13.99 at Target -- or $4.03 more.

      • The Redken Guts 10 volume spray foam retails for $14.99. We paid $15.99 -- or $1 more -- at Target.

      We also learned that the hair-care products we purchased at Target had telltale signs of diverted merchandise.

      The tall, silver can of Redken Guts 10 volume spray, for example, was dented and dirty.

      "That's typical. It's also typical to see dusty or sticky products," Bresnahan said. "I wouldn't buy them. And if a can is dented, how do you know that the pin used to spray the product is not broken?"

      Part of the batch code on the Paul Mitchell finishing spray was missing. Some of the lettering on the bottle had faded, too.

      And all the bottles had stickers attached to the containers -- ones that looked like someone had taken a razor blade and cut an "X" through them.

      clip_image006

      "At Paul Mitchell, we don't have stickers on our bottles," Bresnahan said. "Our UPC codes are printed on the plastic. That sticker you see is probably on top of our UPC code and is the code that Target or the wholesaler who bought the product use to scan the merchandise."

      Missing batch codes are common signs of diverted products.

      "We've had cases where the batch codes are totally or partially removed," Bresnahan said. "That can be dangerous if we have a recall. We don't contact Target because they're not an authorized dealer. And if a consumer hears about the recall -- and the batch code is removed -- they can't tell if the product is included in the recall."

      She added, "It's also possible that these products could be outdated. I have seen with my own eyes where older packaging is on the shelves."

      How do these professional hair-care products -- which usually state on the bottles that they are only to be sold in salons -- wind up on the shelves at Target and other retailers nationwide?

      Not illegal

      Isn't it illegal for Target and retailers to sell, for example, the Paul Mitchell finishing spray, which clearly states on the bottle: "Guaranteed only when sold by a professional hairdresser, otherwise it may be counterfeit, old, or tampered with?"

      "We'd like Target not to carry our brands and we've voiced that concern to them," Bresnahan said. "We've written letters to them saying the source of their products is suspect and they can't guarantee they are buying quality products.

      "But it's not illegal. We tried to get legislation passed a few years ago (to make diversion illegal) but we were not successful. So, what Target and other retailers are doing is not illegal."

      The illegality, she said, comes into play when someone in the hair-care company's distribution chain breaches a contract -- for example, a professional salon selling products to unauthorized dealers or distributors.

      "When we catch salons selling our products out the back door, we take immediate action," Bresnahan said. "We immediately cease doing business with them and if we can take legal action against them, we do.

      "We also have the ability to track products back to the distributor who sold them and when that distributor is identified, there is a penalty."

      Counterfeiting

      It's also illegal, Bresnahan said, for anyone to steal or tamper with the company's products -- or make counterfeit merchandise.

      "We had a counterfeiting case and discovered the products contained high levels of bacteria," she said. "In that case, we worked with Customs, and Food and Drug Administration officials."

      In most cases, Bresnahan said, professional hair-care products end up in Target and other retailers when:

        • A diverter approaches a salon owner or manager. The diverter offers to pay the salon 10% to 30% over cost. "A lot of time, the salon might need some extra money -- or the manager might not know he or she is doing anything wrong -- and they agree to do business with the diverter," Bresnahan said.

        • The salon orders the products. The diverter returns to the shop, pays the agreed-upon price -- often as cash under the table -- and picks up the unopened boxes. "They do this until they have a truckload and then they take the products back to their warehouse," Bresnahan said.

        • Once in the warehouse, the diverters remove the batch codes on the products. The decoded products are then shipped to discount stores, grocery stores and drugstores nationwide.

        Matrix and Redken echo Bresnahan's concerns.

        "The average price for a bottle of Matrix shampoo or conditioner is generally 10% higher than salon retail prices," the company's Web site states. "Matrix products are available exclusively in salons because only trained and licensed professional stylists can prescribe the best products for use in the salon or at home."

        Redken doesn't mince any words in its warning to consumers about diverted hair-care products.

        "Diverted products can be counterfeit, diluted formulas, or old, expired formulas that may not be safe to use," the company's Web site states. "Contaminated or counterfeit products could cause irritation or even infection."

        Target unrepentant

        ConsumerAffairs.com contacted Target about the sale of diverted hair-care products.

        The company told us it doesn't see anything wrong with selling these salon-exclusive products in its stores.

        "Target has chosen to offer professional hair-care products to better serve our guests," the company wrote in a statement issued to ConsumerAffairs.com. "We have purchased these products on the open market and are conducting our business in full compliance with the law. We believe our guests appreciate having these high-quality products available in our stores."

        We asked the company how these diverted products could be considered "high quality."

        Target's spokesman, Joshua Thomas, said he couldn't provide any additional information regarding that question -- beyond what he said in the company's written response.

        When asked about the price differences, Thomas said: "We always strive to be competitive in the area."

        Consumers, he added, can return these hair-care products to Target within 90 days of purchase and -- if they have their receipt -- receive a refund.

        Bresnahan, however, warns consumers not to waste their money on any professional hair-care products sold at retailers nationwide -- or at local flea markets that are popular during the spring and summer months.

        "Salons can't decide to set up booths at a flea market in their community. We don't allow our products to be sold at flea markets."

        She added: "My message to consumers is this. If you want to be guaranteed that you're purchasing a real Paul Mitchell product, purchase one at a salon from a professional hairdresser. It matters to us where you purchase our products. We want to guarantee you're getting real products. If you buy them someplace else, there's no guarantee what you're getting."

        What to do

        Consumers who suspect they've purchased a diverted Paul Mitchell, Matrix or Redken product should contact the company.

        They can reach them at:

        Comments

         

        Kudos to Irene, a stylist who actually gets it! You are indeed a "hair doctor." If you can't sell a product to a client with whom you have their undivided attention for at least 30 minutes(at minimum), you have absolutely nothing to complain about! Spend a little less time discussing your personal lives and more on what you are paid to do. That is to be a proffessional hair stylist and image consultant. And one more note in response to Kara's comment that Target is stealing her business........... What business????? In order for something to be "stolen" it has to be first "owned" by somebody else. Last time I checked the "numbers," our industry NEVER OWNED the retail business to begin with!!!

        My daughter is a Loreal employee, so I know not to purchase these products from department stores. We must always remember, you get what you pay for.  A savings is not always a savings.  What I did not know was the risk involved in using these products.  Thanks for the knowledge, I will alert others to the hazards.

        I really must agree with Robert J, Derek & Nikki....We are the ones in control...we must insist our clients purchase the products from us..as we the PROFESSIONAL presripe...we certainly do not reccommend they go buy a box-color or cut there own hair!! Educate yourselves,educate your clients.

        Buy Kenra.  You will never find them on the shelves of Target...

        I agree with much of what is said in this article with the exception of the part where the manufacturers are actually doing anything serious about this.

        I have been a hairdresser for 30 years. I have been salon owner for 25 years.

        I have sold all three of these brands over those years. The salon contracts are a sham and any salon owner who signs one is a fool.

        They mean nothing to the salon owner. Especially when you can buy these products in almost every grocery store. This problem has been around since the late seventies.

        I know a little bit about retail. If you expect me to believe that the combination of salons in my community could supply the 3 HEB's 4 Target's and 3 Walmart's in my local area or any other combination of OTC retailers anywhere than you are a bigger fool than you think I am.

        I'll prove it to you right here, right now... Search any of these three lines on eBay. Look at what is changing hands this minute or any other minute for that matter. If the FBI guy at Redken cant figure this one out I know why he is now working for a shampoo company.

        In fact, if any of these companies wanted to, they could use eBay's VERO progran to have these products removed. Serious manufaturers use VERO on eBay sellers all the time.

        The fact is, these idiot hairdressers, if they are hairdressers, paid good money to promote these brands every time they list one one eBay. These companies are enjoying free advertising every time. Of course they don't do a thing about it.

        If you still don't believe me. I sold some product on ebay and told the destributor I was doing it and begged them take me to court for it so I could get some publicity about this problem. Nothing...

        My attorney told me the salon contract I had was an absolute joke. Fully protected the distributor and the manufacturer and did nothing to protect my salons vested interest as a retailer of the product.  Any time these companies want to put their money where there mouth is. Buy it back and flush it down the toilet. Especially if you think it may be contaminated.

        Thank You!

        eBay Redken

        search.ebay.com/.../search.dll

        eBay Biolage

        search.ebay.com/.../search.dll

        eBay Paul Mitchell

        search.ebay.com/.../search.dll

        To add insult to injury, we, the salon owners and stylists continue to hear from sales reps and manufacturers that diversion is caused by, " salons and stylists not doing their job". Who do you think built these muti-million dollar brand names? It was the salons who took the gamble and invested thousands of dollars in stocking these brands in their salons when the consumer had never heard of them. It was the stylist working behind the chair that used and promoted these brands that made them what they are today. Diversion is caused by one thing and that is the absolute greed of the manufactuers. They place quotas on the distributors, forcing them to purchase much more than they could possibly to salon, thereby forcing them to sell to diversion outlets. It is the distributors that place unreal quotas on their sales reps , forcing them to, look the other way, when salons are purchasing huge amounts to divert products. The salon product distributors operate thousands of "distributor stores", practically open to the public, where almost anyone can go in and purchase as much product as they wish, no questions asked. Professional hairshows throughout the country, where anyone can purchase a ticket and buy truckloads of professional products if they wish. Now the manufacturers can't seem to understand why the product is sold everywhere.

        We don't remove the batch codes.  Buy at drug emporium for a good price.

        If you purchase a hair care product from My Salon- use it -- don't like it ---I'll exchange it.  Try that at Target Shopko etc.  Nikki is right  as a Redken Educator, I

        know how it works why it works and who should use it.

        I actually seen first hand some lady BUYING diverted products, I just looked at her like she was dumb and I said 'your going to buy that from here?' She said 'its cheaper', I said 'no its not, your getting ripped off and its probably old' than I just walked off.

        I have opened a bottle that was at shoppers drug mart to see if it was the same shampoo or conditioner in the Joico bottles, I am a stylist myself and  I know what it should smell like cause I have used it for years and I smelled totally different. They had put something else in the professional bottle, very cheap smelling it wasn't at all the conditioner that I know from being a stylist should be in the bottle was not

        what it says that it is. Our clients pay way too much for something that is FAKE.

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