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Beware when stores sell 'salon-only' hair-care products

Posted Apr 30 2008, 01:38 PM by Karen Datko
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This post comes from Lisa Wade McCormick at partner blog ConsumerAffairs.com.

Consumers who buy professional hair-care products at major retailers -- or at grocery stores and drugstores -- are not getting the bargains they may think they are.

They're also fueling a grey-market industry that deals in counterfeit, stolen or outdated merchandise.

That's the warning issued by hair-care giants like Paul Mitchell, Redken and Matrix, which are trying to crack down on an industrywide problem known as diversion.

This problem is not only costly to the image of hair-care makers, but consumers also pay a hefty price.

"The consumer is getting ripped off because not only are they paying more for the products, those products did not come from us, they are not guaranteed, and they could be old, stolen, counterfeit or tampered with," said Vikki Bresnahan, director of product- distribution control for Paul Mitchell. "It's definitely a buyer-beware situation."

To illustrate how this scheme affects consumers' pocketbooks, ConsumerAffairs.com purchased three professional hair-care products from a Target store in Kansas City, Mo.

Easy to find

clip_image004We didn't have any trouble finding these types of products in the store. The shelves on one side of an aisle were filled with various brands of salon-exclusive shampoos, hair sprays, conditioners and other products.

ConsumerAffairs.com purchased the following:

    • A 10.58-ounce bottle of Redken Guts 10 volume spray foam for $15.99.

    • A 16.9-ounce bottle of Matrix Biolage normalizing shampoo for $13.99.

    • An 8.5-ounce bottle of Paul Mitchell light-hold finishing spray for $10.49.

    We discovered that these same products would have cost much less at a professional salon.

    "Our retail price for that finishing spray is $7.50," said Paul Mitchell's Bresnahan. "You just paid $2.99 more than retail for a product that is diverted.

    "When consumers go into Target, they think they're getting a product that is cheaper," she added. "But they're not. And not only are the products not cheaper, they may not be the real thing."

    We contacted professional stylists at The Sharper Cut in Kansas City to compare the prices on the other salon-exclusive products we purchased at Target.

    Higher price

    Once again, we discovered we paid more than professional-salon prices.

    Consider:

      • The Biolage shampoo by Matrix costs $9.96 at The Sharper Cut. We paid $13.99 at Target -- or $4.03 more.

      • The Redken Guts 10 volume spray foam retails for $14.99. We paid $15.99 -- or $1 more -- at Target.

      We also learned that the hair-care products we purchased at Target had telltale signs of diverted merchandise.

      The tall, silver can of Redken Guts 10 volume spray, for example, was dented and dirty.

      "That's typical. It's also typical to see dusty or sticky products," Bresnahan said. "I wouldn't buy them. And if a can is dented, how do you know that the pin used to spray the product is not broken?"

      Part of the batch code on the Paul Mitchell finishing spray was missing. Some of the lettering on the bottle had faded, too.

      And all the bottles had stickers attached to the containers -- ones that looked like someone had taken a razor blade and cut an "X" through them.

      clip_image006

      "At Paul Mitchell, we don't have stickers on our bottles," Bresnahan said. "Our UPC codes are printed on the plastic. That sticker you see is probably on top of our UPC code and is the code that Target or the wholesaler who bought the product use to scan the merchandise."

      Missing batch codes are common signs of diverted products.

      "We've had cases where the batch codes are totally or partially removed," Bresnahan said. "That can be dangerous if we have a recall. We don't contact Target because they're not an authorized dealer. And if a consumer hears about the recall -- and the batch code is removed -- they can't tell if the product is included in the recall."

      She added, "It's also possible that these products could be outdated. I have seen with my own eyes where older packaging is on the shelves."

      How do these professional hair-care products -- which usually state on the bottles that they are only to be sold in salons -- wind up on the shelves at Target and other retailers nationwide?

      Not illegal

      Isn't it illegal for Target and retailers to sell, for example, the Paul Mitchell finishing spray, which clearly states on the bottle: "Guaranteed only when sold by a professional hairdresser, otherwise it may be counterfeit, old, or tampered with?"

      "We'd like Target not to carry our brands and we've voiced that concern to them," Bresnahan said. "We've written letters to them saying the source of their products is suspect and they can't guarantee they are buying quality products.

      "But it's not illegal. We tried to get legislation passed a few years ago (to make diversion illegal) but we were not successful. So, what Target and other retailers are doing is not illegal."

      The illegality, she said, comes into play when someone in the hair-care company's distribution chain breaches a contract -- for example, a professional salon selling products to unauthorized dealers or distributors.

      "When we catch salons selling our products out the back door, we take immediate action," Bresnahan said. "We immediately cease doing business with them and if we can take legal action against them, we do.

      "We also have the ability to track products back to the distributor who sold them and when that distributor is identified, there is a penalty."

      Counterfeiting

      It's also illegal, Bresnahan said, for anyone to steal or tamper with the company's products -- or make counterfeit merchandise.

      "We had a counterfeiting case and discovered the products contained high levels of bacteria," she said. "In that case, we worked with Customs, and Food and Drug Administration officials."

      In most cases, Bresnahan said, professional hair-care products end up in Target and other retailers when:

        • A diverter approaches a salon owner or manager. The diverter offers to pay the salon 10% to 30% over cost. "A lot of time, the salon might need some extra money -- or the manager might not know he or she is doing anything wrong -- and they agree to do business with the diverter," Bresnahan said.

        • The salon orders the products. The diverter returns to the shop, pays the agreed-upon price -- often as cash under the table -- and picks up the unopened boxes. "They do this until they have a truckload and then they take the products back to their warehouse," Bresnahan said.

        • Once in the warehouse, the diverters remove the batch codes on the products. The decoded products are then shipped to discount stores, grocery stores and drugstores nationwide.

        Matrix and Redken echo Bresnahan's concerns.

        "The average price for a bottle of Matrix shampoo or conditioner is generally 10% higher than salon retail prices," the company's Web site states. "Matrix products are available exclusively in salons because only trained and licensed professional stylists can prescribe the best products for use in the salon or at home."

        Redken doesn't mince any words in its warning to consumers about diverted hair-care products.

        "Diverted products can be counterfeit, diluted formulas, or old, expired formulas that may not be safe to use," the company's Web site states. "Contaminated or counterfeit products could cause irritation or even infection."

        Target unrepentant

        ConsumerAffairs.com contacted Target about the sale of diverted hair-care products.

        The company told us it doesn't see anything wrong with selling these salon-exclusive products in its stores.

        "Target has chosen to offer professional hair-care products to better serve our guests," the company wrote in a statement issued to ConsumerAffairs.com. "We have purchased these products on the open market and are conducting our business in full compliance with the law. We believe our guests appreciate having these high-quality products available in our stores."

        We asked the company how these diverted products could be considered "high quality."

        Target's spokesman, Joshua Thomas, said he couldn't provide any additional information regarding that question -- beyond what he said in the company's written response.

        When asked about the price differences, Thomas said: "We always strive to be competitive in the area."

        Consumers, he added, can return these hair-care products to Target within 90 days of purchase and -- if they have their receipt -- receive a refund.

        Bresnahan, however, warns consumers not to waste their money on any professional hair-care products sold at retailers nationwide -- or at local flea markets that are popular during the spring and summer months.

        "Salons can't decide to set up booths at a flea market in their community. We don't allow our products to be sold at flea markets."

        She added: "My message to consumers is this. If you want to be guaranteed that you're purchasing a real Paul Mitchell product, purchase one at a salon from a professional hairdresser. It matters to us where you purchase our products. We want to guarantee you're getting real products. If you buy them someplace else, there's no guarantee what you're getting."

        What to do

        Consumers who suspect they've purchased a diverted Paul Mitchell, Matrix or Redken product should contact the company.

        They can reach them at:

         

        .

        Comments

         

        Very interesting!  I have seen my salon shampoo and conditioner at a local pharmacy and was thinking that it might be cheaper to get it there.  Now I know not to!  Thanks :)

        I am a salon owner and diversion is a big issue for my industry. In my search for NON-DIVERTED products I have developed close relationships with smaller hair care company owners and have learned a few other details about diversion.  A key issue that was not raised in this article is that distributors have quotas they have to meet, if there salons aren't ordering p their stock guess who they are selling to, middle men who are altering product.  Distributors  are a larger contributor to this devastating industry problem. For one to think a salon could order the number of units needed to stock a shelf at Wall -Mart is phenomenally ignorant. The other thing that hair care companies do is introduce a product to salons let them build the "branding" for it ,then low and behold it has been diverted. Their response is always, we have no control over diversion. Absolutely the public should not buy professional products from anyone other then their stylist.

        If you think the distributors are the only ones who are at fault, you are so wrong!  Manufacturers have coding systems in place and so do the big distributors.  The distributors can code the product and know what salon the product was sold to.  There are street teams who go out and purchase these products so the manufacturers can see which distributors they come from.  They know where they come from and yet, they still allow the distributor to sell to a non-contracted, professional establishment!  What does that tell you?  It's all about "making the month, the quarter and the year!  "Bottom line" is all anyone really cares about.  And in this stage of our economy, it will only get worse.  This will NEVER go away as long as the manufacturers continue to sell to the distributors that are diverting to non-contracted establishements.  

        I have been in the hair industry for 15 years, 10 as a salon owner,  I work as a platform artist for a manufacturer and travel the country for coast to coast, and border to border doing hair shows.    I have found that the only brands that are diverted are owned by Loreal, p&g, Johnson and johnson, Este lauder, and conair.(also known as the big five).  I find it hard to believe these products come from anywhere but the maufacturer because it is so wide spread acroos the country and on the web.  If you are a salon owner or stylist using a diverted line sold in other retail outlets, you are working for the other retail outlets, beause your clients are buying these products based on your "professional" recomendation. so my advise is to partner up with a company that does not allow their product to end up in these places

        This phenomenon is not limited to this industry.  As a veterinary professional, I've often seen it with products in our field.  You should always be cautious if you see a professional product for sale in a nonprofessional setting.

        What I f ind interesting about the issue of professional haircare products being diverted is that those that scream the loudest are often times the very same people who buy "knock off" designer handbags.  I guess consistently inconsistent is the name of the game these days!

        We could have taken care of this problem long ago if the, Professional Service Provider, did their job of prescribing the correct hair care products and closing the sale! Hey, here is an idea, lets explain what we are using on you today and this is what you will need to recreate the look you have today, tomorrow.What a concept!

        Diversion is a result of the ineptness of the salon professional failing to understand the importance of professional recommendation. NOT JUST SELLING PRODUCTS!

        I echo the words of Robert J. If the salon proffesionals had realized the importance and absolute neccesity of recommending proffessional products when they were only available in the salon we probably wouldn"t be in this predicament. Unfortunately, the salons that are screaming the loudest are the same ones who wouldn't have enough common sense to sell bottled water at a track meet in the Mojave desert! Until service providers understand that the job of the service is just as important as the tools used to maintain it, they should "zip it." With an industry average of an embarrasing 8% retail to gross service dollars(which based on my 14 years as a Distributor Sales Consultant, is completely inflated) it's strikingly obvious that there is no real commitment, for the majority of service providers, to finish the job they started when their client sat down in the chair!

        I just want to thank Lisa for posting this blog and educating  our community in diversion.  I just want to know how Joshua Thomas thinks Target can sell these "high quality products"  when he can't answer simple questions asked by consumer affairs for our "community", or as Joshua would like to say, "Targets guest".  Target or any other drug stores  and grocery stores obviously are not educated enough to be selling these products.  I am in a Redken specialist course and I would like to leave the community with a quote our instructor left our class; " we are the hair doctors,  we are the ones who make a prescription of hair products for our clients."  Professional hair care products are defiantly not something to be taken lightly.

        The question becomes, if these large mass retailers will buy gray market shampoo and conditioners, do they buy gray market food and pharmaceuticals?

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