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Sneaky restaurant tricks: Your food's getting smaller

Posted Apr 28 2008, 12:22 PM by Donna Freedman
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It's not your imagination: Restaurant meals are shrinking. According to a Washington Post article, restaurants are downsizing meats, retooling sauces and using trompe l'oeil trickery to make little shrimp look bigger. (Skewer 'em before boiling and they don't curl up!)

Portion sizes had previously gotten out of hand, so much so that many Americans are unable to perceive when they're overeating. Still, it's no fun to pay $25 for filet mignon and be served two petite steaklets, or to plunk down $6 for a dessert the size of the lid on the salt shaker. Cute food is irritating.

However, I was intrigued by the restaurateurs' survival tactics. Maybe we should apply them to our own kitchens.

The way of less flesh
The article noted that if filet mignon costs $20 a pound, or $1.25 per ounce, then an 8-ounce filet costs $2.50 less than a 10-ounce one.

I don't know a soul who buys $20-per-pound meat. But we can achieve the same effect. Cut back slightly on the meat you put in chili. Make one piece of chicken or beef serve two or three people by turning it into a stir-fry.

Or go meatless one or two days a week. Lots of people in the world cook this way and they've got some mighty interesting cuisines.

Restaurateurs disguise the size of the meat by heaping on side dishes. Try serving two veggies instead of one, or a slightly larger serving of potatoes, couscous or rice. (The recent buzz about rationed rice had to do with the imports. Supplies of American-grown rice are stable.)

Entrees may be smaller than they appear
One restaurant owner enhanced profits by buying smaller plates. Since chefs tend to dump on food until plates look full, a hubcap-sized dish means less profit.

I'm not suggesting you feed your family from saucers, but take a look at your own table. If your dinnerware is huge, maybe you are overserving. Try a smaller plate. They can always ask for seconds. It needn't cost a lot; the yard-sale season is coming up and you can always find dishes that way, or just get them in a thrift shop.

Chefs are tweaking recipes by using cheaper ingredients. At home that could mean simple hacks such as mixing fresh milk with powdered, or investing in lower-end spices like the kind that regularly go on sale two for $1 at Walgreens.

Look, a lot of you buy the pricey spice because you've been told it's "better." It may be better. It's definitely more expensive.

And if you really can't stand the idea of 50-cent oregano vs. $3.99 oregano, buy both and mix them up. Nobody has to know that you get your spices at Big Lots.

It just makes cents
The most interesting suggestion was raising entrée prices -- by only 4 cents. A "menu re-engineering and recipe development specialist" (honest!) explained that a $7.95 meal going up to $7.99 is barely noticeable. However, it can amount to $5,000 to $15,000 extra each year.

Consumers could retool this idea in a couple of ways. First, make it your mission to spend slightly less each time you shop. That sounds impossible these days, but give it a shot. Buy the store-brand baked beans instead of Bush's, or make your own with dried beans and a slow cooker. If a recipe calls for chopped onions, use the dehydrated ones you bought two for $1 at Walgreens. When you see marked-down meat in the butcher section, change your menu plan to accommodate it. (Or just freeze it for the next week.) Figure out what you saved and set at least $1 of it aside.

Or shop with cash, a la the "envelope system," and take a single dollar bill from the envelope before you start. If you're a coupon shopper, set aside $1 or more of your coupon savings.

This sounds impossibly low-rent, I know. But so does a 4-cent price increase, and look how that adds up. You won't go grocery shopping as often as Applebee's serves up a cheeseburger, but you will make progress.

Suppose you market just once a week. That's still a minimum of $4 per month, which becomes almost $50 a year. If you're really good with coupons and are a frugalvore in the bargain, it could be considerably more.

That's $50 or more toward your emergency fund. It could pay for your kid's school pictures, or school shoes. Or it could be seed money for a goal: a community college class, a car that doesn't break down all the time, decent shoes, maybe even a vacation.

Or, heck, use it to take yourself to an all-you-can-eat buffet once in a while. You can control your own portions there, or gleefully refuse to control them. If you do go, remember my dad's buffet rule: Never eat anything you can afford to eat at home.

Comments

 

This is nothing new.  Candy manufacturers did this years ago.  Same price, less ounces.  The restaurants will do this until they have no other alternative, but to raise prices and keep the smaller portions.  Maybe they'll even increase the ambience by turning off the lights and using candles.  Saves them electricity, good for the environment and you're now eating in an upscale restaurant

I have and use a set of everyday dishware from the '50's    The dinner plates are 8  1/2 inches.  the orange juice glass holds 6 ounces.  The coffee cups hold 8 oz to the rim.  The cereal bowls hold less than 8 ounces.  

Modern dinner plates are typically more than 10 inches usually about 12 inches.  There are no 6 ounce glasses, coffee cups hold 12 to 16 ounces,  and cereal bowls can be as large as 20 ounces.  

Who wants to eat a package of oatmeal (about a cup) from a bowl that holds 20 ounces??  It looks empty!   How easy is it to fill up that bowl with 2 or 3 servings of cold cereal and a pint of milk?  

I totally agree with finding and using smaller plates.  Just don't forget to downsize the other dishes you use as well.

Lakshmi: I cook only with spices from Walgreens two-for-$1 rack, plus a 68-cent jar of pepper from Big Lots. Of course I know that freshly ground spices have more flavor. I'm not an idiot.

But I have two thoughts on that. For starters, how do you really know how old the higher-end spices are? Maybe they were ground up a year ago. Maybe longer.

More to the point, many people either can't tell the difference (cheap spice is what they're used to eating) or can't AFFORD to tell the difference (a $3.99 tin of oregano could equate a small on-sale roast that would be a meal for the whole family, or four pounds of beans that would be several meals for the whole family).

I cheerfully admit that I have a proletarian palate. My food tastes just fine. It might taste more pungent if I used freshly ground spices. But it's peppery, cayenne-y, basil-y and oregano-y enough for me -- and I expect that in this economy other people's palates would be able to adjust, too.

Thanks for reading.

Best regards,

Donna Freedman

Restaurants will do what they perceive best for their business in order to try to survive.  A lot of restaurants serve portions of whatever that are/were too large -- not out of the goodness of their hearts, but rather as their then-current business model convinced them was best.  

It's Darwinian -- some will make the right choice and survive -- some will guess wrong and go belly-up.

It's seldom worth it to me to spend the extra time it inevitably takes to eat out, so restaurants can minipulate their prices and portion sizes to their heart's content and not noticably effect this consumer's patronage.

soon as the economy rolls on many of em will be out of  business

People need to take the time to check out what is on sale at all the local grocery stores.  Make a list of what is on sale at each store.  Do not include things that you

usually don't eat just because it is on sale unless you know you really like it.

Plan your grocery shopping trip to include stops at each store ( within reason) that has sale items you want to buy.  By within reason I mean-if the stores are not across town from each other, but only a few blocks from each other-so you aren't really adding any mileage, or very little to your trip- it is worth it.  After you have compiled your list, then create your menu for the week incorporating what you know you are going to buy combined with what you know you already have on hand.  Always make sure to create your menu using up the perishable items you already have on hand first.  Learn to use inexpensive types of frozen fish, canned tuna and salmon more often.  They are healthier for you, and much cheaper. Learn how to cut up whole chickens yourself instead of buying only chicken breasts.  Cut up inexpensive cuts of roasts for stew beef yourself. Anytime you buy meat that the butcher has to spend time cutting up or trimming you are going to pay a much higher price per pound.   Use more eggs and dried beans and rice instead of the expensive red meats. Bake your own bread, buy bread at thrift bakeries.  Make your own peanut butter crackers by spreading the peanut butter on the store brand cracker yourself instead of buying prepackaged snack ones.  Avoid convenience foods.  If you work long days and don't feel like cooking in the evenings cook 3 or 4 dishes on the weekend and stick in the freezer.  In doing so you are making the mess and cleaning up the mess only one time-instead of 3 or 4!  Go on line and find hundreds of recipes that are economical and can be fixed in less than 30 minutes- total time!Like anything else, you may have to put a little more thought and effort to grocery shopping, meal planning, and cooking, but the savings, and the quality of healtheir foods are well worth it!

Who can afford to go out without a coupon?!

Thanks for the tips on how to eat smarter whether eating out or in.  I really liked the comment you shared from your dad about buffet eating.......never eat anything you can afford to eat at home.  

I agree that food prices are going up.  Let's face it, prices are going up, but, unfortunately, wages are not, so you have to really watch prices and adjust your budget to compensate for these higher prices. When shopping at your local supermarket, COMPARE PRICES OF BRANDS and determine which is the better deal overall and go with that brand.  It all makes cents in today's economy!

I cringe when I see all the comments about how eating at home is better.  In concept this is fine.  However, I really wish more people would look at a cookbook!  I can't count how many meals that I have tried to eat at relatives & friends houses that were a waste of good ingredients!  That's why, whenever possible we arrange to meet at a restaurant, even when we have to treat - restaurant coupons are plentiful!

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